Askanischer Hof Hotel
Berlin
by Sarah Shuckburgh
Time has stood still at the Askanischer Hof, and a uniquely
authentic atmosphere of pre-war Berlin lives on. The
extraordinary, quirky decor of this small hotel makes one
feel that one is staying with an eccentric great-aunt, in
her private first-floor flat. This elderly relation has a
penchant for pink and gold plush upholstery, illuminated
fishtanks and shelves of quaint knick-knacks, but she also
seems to have had hundreds of showbiz friends - the walls
are covered with framed black and white photographs of pre-
and post-war beauties with indecipherable signatures. More
recent celebrity guests of the Askanscher Hof include Kafka
(who wrote a book in Room 12), Arthur Miller, Anthony Quinn,
Helmut Newton, David Bowie and Tilda Swinton.
Taxi drivers find it hard to spot the modest hotel entrance,
which nestles between designer shop-fronts on the swanky
West Berlin shopping street, Kurfurstendamm. But beyond the
jostling pavement, another world awaits you. Enjoy the faded
grandeur of the Art Deco lobby before you climb (or take the
lift) to the hotel reception on the first floor. The
building dates from 1910 and its Art Nouveau leaded windows,
embossed ceilings and glass chandeliers miraculously
survived the devastation of the Battle of Berlin in 1945.
The fifteen bedrooms come in varying shapes and sizes, but
all are filled with early twentieth century furniture. Large
windows look on to bustling Ku'damm, or over a peaceful
inner courtyard.
The dining room is splendidly kitsch, with gold flock
wallpaper, an ornate gilded ceiling, patterned velour
upholstery in a dozen shades of pink, fringed lampshades,
ruffled net curtains, and - on every surface - jugs of pink
plastic flowers. Scalloped lace cloths cover the many layers
of pink damask on every table. Your feet will hardly touch
the floor as you sit on the huge, overstuffed armchairs,
reputedly once owned by Kaiser Wilhelm. The breakfast buffet
offers a delicious selection of pastries, black and brown
breads, cheeses and cooked meat, muesli, yogurt, fruit -
fresh and dried - and nuts and seeds, as well as hot dishes
to order.
The biggest and most impressive bedroom is number 15. Thirty
feet long, this light, airy room has an original sculpted
ceiling and huge, elaborately draped windows. The period
furnishings include leather sofas and a heavy wrought-iron
chandelier.
Although much of the Askanischer Hof appears to be unchanged
since the 1930s, every room is equipped with the latest ISDN
telephone systems, with answerphone, fax and modem, cable
TV, mini-bar and safe. The ensuite bathrooms are spotless,
brightly lit and luxuriously appointed.
First published by Travel Intelligence Ltd
©SarahShuckburgh |
