Sydney's Other Golden Sands
Sydney Beaches
by Sarah Shuckburgh
Sarah Shuckburgh finds that
there is a beach to suit everyone in Sydney.
Palm Beach
For the rich and famous
The lighthouse on the headland at the northern end of Palm
Beach will be familiar to followers of Home And Away but,
despite its fame, the beach is less crowded - and even
prettier - than many others. Perched at the limit of
Sydney's northern suburbs, the beach boasts a long sweep of
coarse, reddish sand, backed with palms. Beyond the strand
are the homes of Australia's rich and famous - private
seaplanes fly regularly between here and Sydney harbour.
Best place to rub shoulders with the locals is at Jonah's
restaurant (9974 5599).
Whale beach
Surf the wedge
Less fashionable than Palm Beach, but dotted with some of
Sydney's most expensive properties, Whale Beach has
spectacular surf and dramatic cliff scenery. On the drive
home from work, surfers loiter on the cliffs above Whale,
assessing the surf and looking for the famous "wedge" -
swell that on certain tides bounces off the rocks and
produces a wave twice the size of most Sydney breaks. Eat at
De Beers, where the house favourite is the Valrhona
chocolate cake.
Avalon Beach, just to the south, is even less built up, with
grassy sandhills between the beach and the road, surf as
good as any in Sydney, and a quiet and informal air -
barefoot customers are the norm in the tiny supermarket.
Shelly beach
Rock pools and bushwalks
Shelly Beach occupies an idyllic little bay, backed by the
dense greenery of the bush. Facing north (towards the sun),
it is sheltered from the wind, and its waves are gentle. Its
rock pools and shady nooks attract families, but not huge
crowds. Le Kiosk restaurant (9977 4122) provides a superb
lunch, which can be walked off by taking one of many tracks
through the bush on North Head. Getting here is a delight in
itself - take the ferry from Sydney's Circular Quay to Manly
and it's a short walk to Manly's ocean beach and then south
to Shelly Bay.
Manly Cove
Sydney's first seaside resort
Manly is one of the oldest names in colonial Australia. In
1788, the year transportation began, Governor Arthur
Phillips named the cove to honour the "confidence and manly
bearing" of its indigenous people. Day-trippers have taken
the ferry here since 1850. For years, Manly's motto has been
"Seven miles from Sydney and 1,000 miles from care". A fun
fair, Oceanworld aquarium, and other seaside attractions
create a cheerful holiday-resort feel. Eat at the Brazil
(9977 3825), a relaxed cafe by day and sophisticated
restaurant by night. The Manly Scenic Walkway is a great
five-mile coastal path that winds through sub-tropical
rainforest, coves and deserted beaches.
Balmoral Cove
Kensington on sea
This is a peaceful, leafy area of old money still stuck in
the 1920s. Concerts are held in the bandstand on summer
Sundays and the esplanade retains an air of calm and
dignity. Four-wheel drives - a rare modern import - carry
designer-clad children and Labradors to the elegant
terracotta-roofed houses that perch on the bush-ringed
hillside. The exclusive, wholesome beach - netted against
sharks - is popular with families, and has windsurfing,
sailing and canoeing. Eat on the esplanade at the chic
Bathers' Pavilion (9969 5050) or award-winning Watermark
Restaurant (9968 3433).
Camp Cove
A favourite with divers
Just inside the southern entrance to the harbour is a
perfect arc of sand: Camp Cove. Small and pretty, it is
fringed with palm trees and surrounded by impenetrable bush
- though the suburbs, as elsewhere, are only just out of
sight. The clear, unruffled water makes this one of Sydney's
best beaches for diving. Just south lies Watson's Bay, home
to Doyles (9337 1350), a celebrated seafood restaurant. Just
north is the even smaller Lady Bay, a favourite with
nudists.
Shark Island
In your own tinny
For the doughty, some lovely beaches snuggle on tiny islands
in the middle of Sydney Harbour. Of these, the best is Shark
Island. No ferry service operates, so take a water taxi or
motor boat - known as a "tinny" - hired from Rose Bay. It
takes five minutes to chug to the island, and an ideal
mooring point is Neilson Bay, with a large netted swimming
area and great fishing (but little shade). The island has
other isolated beaches, but some restricted zones. Take a
picnic and plenty of water - there are no shops, but, if
you're lucky, the floating ice-cream man will sail past.
Tamarama
For beautiful people
Known locally as Glamarama: for people whose hair is never
tangled, and whose limbs are perfectly toned. The coastal
path here is thronged with elegant power-walkers and joggers
who pause only to flex their muscles on cliff-top gym
equipment. The surf club runs yoga sessions, and the beach
cafe serves exotic juices and health foods for the
diet-conscious clientele. A luxury waiter service provides
chaise longues, umbrellas, cold towels, spring water and
snacks.
Coogee
Laid-back and friendly
Coogee has a mellow atmosphere that appeals to locals who
have tired of Bondi. The bay's green headlands provide
shelter from the wind, and the waves are smaller than at
other beaches. Two saltwater swimming pools nestle at the
southern end, one of them a secluded pool for women and
children only. The Coogee Bay Hotel is a magnet for British
backpackers, and cafés nearby overflow with laid-back,
sparsely clad customers. Local favourites include the
Barzura Café (9665 5546) and the Beach Pit (9665 0068).
Rose Bay
Fly to a deserted beach
Find a secluded beach by chartering a seaplane from Rose Bay
and fly across the harbour with a bird's-eye view of the
translucent blues and greens of the ocean, the jagged
fingers of dark green bush, and the surf rolling towards
each cove and bay. The seaplane can drop you off at any
beach (with a picnic hamper) and pick you up later. Contact
Palm Beach Seaplanes (www.sydneybyseaplane.com; from £120
per person).
First published by the Telegraph
©SarahShuckburgh |